INSOLIT VISIT IN MARSEILLE : THE FRIOUL ISLANDS AND IF CASTLE

– Good to know –

The Frioul islands are made up of Pomegues and Ratonneau islands and are part of the Frioul archipelago. This archipelago also includes Tiboulen islet, which is only accessible by boat, and If islet, home to the famous If Castle (“Château d’If”). The entire area belongs to the Calanques National Park.

HOW TO GET TO THE FRIOUL ISLANDS ?

If you are traveling by car, the best option is to park at Marseille’s Vieux-Port (either in the paid-parking lot “Cours d’Estienne d’Orves” or in nearby streets if you have more time). You can also reach the ferry departure point by metro, getting off at the “Vieux-Port” stop. Then head to the Maritime Terminal near the “Ombrière” (arge courtyard with mirror on the ceiling) to board the boat.

It is best to arrive early to avoid peak hours between 10 and 11 a.m. and to book your tickets in advance if possible.

👉 Price per person : €11.10 for a round trip to the Frioul islands / Add €5.60 if you wish to stop at If islet / Entrance to If castle (“château d’If”) : €7

👉 Prices, schedules, and ferry reservations

Walk ON the Coastal Trails

Hiking trails on the Frioul islands are fairly easy, as the area is neither very large nor particularly steep. They lead to beautiful coves, breathtaking views over Marseille and the Mediterranean sea and fascinating historical sites. The routes are accessible to most visitors with an easy to moderate difficulty level. Just make sure to wear good walking shoes, bring a cap, and carry enough water.

Ready for the adventure? Here are three hiking routes :

The PomEgues Island Loop

This is our favorite part of the Frioul islands thanks to its wild atmosphere, numerous small coves and stunning views over the sea and Marseille. The trail is easy and perfect for families with children.

The Semaphore Battery sits at the highest point of this part of the archipelago and overlooks the beautiful Crine cove, also known as “Tahiti beach.” Cavaux fort and the “Cap Caveaux” lighthouse are military remains not to be missed, both for their historical interest and their 360-degree views. You truly feel like you are at the edge of the world !

The Ratonneau Island Loop

This part of the Frioul islands offers very diverse landscapes. You will come across stunning coves surrounded by cliffs and travel back in time when spotting Bregantin fort or Caroline hospital. Elevated viewpoints are spectacular, especially the ruins of Ratonneau fort.

Most importantly, you will gain access to small coves and the famous Morgiret and Saint-Estève beaches, perfect for a refreshing swim.

The Complete Frioul Islands Loop

From Pomegues to Ratonneau, this loop allows you to explore both Frioul islands. You will follow an exceptional route dotted with vegetation, lined with coves, and home to remarkable wildlife. Add breathtaking picnic spots and numerous swimming breaks along the way and you have the perfect day out.

Important : The Frioul archipelago is a protected area. Please stay on marked paths to preserve wildlife and vegetation. Camping, drones, and campfires are strictly prohibited.

Swimming in the Most Beautiful Beaches & Coves of the Frioul Islands

Surrounded by unique flora and fauna, the Frioul islands offer incredible swimming spots. The water is crystal clear and the seabed is rich in marine life (we were lucky enough to spot an octopus !). Apart from small boats that sometimes anchor close to shore, you will be immersed in wild nature and a peaceful Mediterranean atmosphere. Here are our favorite spots :

On PomEgues Island

Crine cove : made up of several small pebble beaches and overlooked by steep cliffs, this is the most famous cove and our absolute favorite on the Frioul islands. Often sheltered from the mistral wind, it is recognizable by the rock rising in the middle of the cove.

The water is crystal clear, sometimes turquoise and perfect for snorkeling. A true little paradise, just a 30–40-minute walk from the port.

L’Escondelle cove : located before Crine cove, this intimate cove has no real beach, you’ll lay your towel on the surrounding rocks. It’s an ideal spot for snorkeling or watching the sunset.

Flancadou cove : From above, this charming cove has a heart shape! Like all Frioul coves, the water is very clear and the Mediterranean views are stunning. It’s also a great place to enjoy the warm colors of sunset.

On Ratonneau Island

Saint-Esteve beach : Located 20–30 minutes from the harbour, this beautiful cove features a sandy beach (with pebbles underwater). Its main highlights are the view of If castle and the light blue shades of the water.
In summer, the beach can be crowded, but you can escape the crowds by moving along the rocks. It is the only supervised beach on the Frioul Islands in summer and is equipped with showers.

Port de Banc coves : Located behind Saint-Esteve beach, these coves are a good alternative if you want more peace and quiet. Some are narrow, and boats often anchor nearby, which can be disappointing. However, views of the “Côte Bleue” and the marine life are excellent..

Morgiret cove and its beach : The closest cove to the Frioul harbour and the easiest to access. This pebble beach is almost enclosed, making it well protected from the wind.
Before heading down, we recommend admiring the stunning view from the path above. Access to the beach is also unique, passing between two large rock formations.

Morgiret impresses with its depth, size, and circular shape surrounded by cliffs. Like Escondelle cove, it’s a great sunset spot, but beware of the many anchored boats.

The History of If Castle

This fortress was built on If Islet by order of King Francis I starting in 1527. Fearing an invasion of the city and coastline, it was designed to defend Marseille and control ships entering the port.

The fortress has a square layout and three towers, the tallest being Saint-Christophe Tower, facing the open sea.

From Fortress to Prison

In 1634, If castle was converted into a prison for opponents of the kingdom, a role it kept until 1880. Political prisoners and Protestants were held there. It was later opened to the public and listed as a historical monument.

The castle became world-famous thanks to Alexandre Dumas’ novel The Count of Monte Cristo, in which the fictional character Edmond Dantès is imprisoned at If castle. The legend of the Man in the Iron Mask is also associated with the site, although his story remains a mystery in French history.

Highlights of If Castle

The castle offers incredible views over the Frioul islands and the entire city of Marseille, especially from the Great Tower. You can also spot Caroline Hospital on Ratonneau island.

During this historical visit, you will explore the inner courtyard, collective and individual prison cells, and several other rooms. You’ll also notice numerous graffiti carved into the walls and doors by prisoners and guards, fascinating testimonies of the castle’s past.

WHERE TO STAY WHEN VISITING THE FRIOUL ISLANDS ?

There are no hotels on the Frioul Islands. However, you can :

• Book accommodation on Ratonneau island :

• Stay in a hotel near the Vieux-Port, close to the ferry terminal. We personally recommend the Grand Hôtel Beauvau, especially rooms with a sea view.